Cambodia isn’t a country you skim -its history, resilience, and warmth deserve time, attention, and respect. Spending two full days in Phnom Penh gave us space to understand Cambodia and gain a deep insight as to the harrowing but very recent tragic history and how it has completely shaped the country and the lives of its civilians.
This itinerary blends the emotional weight of Cambodia’s past with the everyday rhythms of the present: river walks, markets, rooftop sunsets, tuk‑tuk rides after dark, and some of the best Khmer food in the country.
First things first….
Where to Stay in Phnom Penh
For Phnom Penh, we chose to stay at Plantation Urban Resort & Spa , and it couldn’t have been a better base for our first days in Cambodia.
Tucked away just behind the Royal Palace and National Museum, Plantation feels like a calm, leafy oasis in the middle of the city. After long, emotionally heavy days exploring Cambodia’s history, having somewhere genuinely peaceful to come back to made a huge difference.
The hotel blends colonial‑era architecture with modern comfort, surrounded by lush gardens and a lotus pond. It’s the kind of place where you can reset between outings, whether that’s with a swim, a spa treatment, or a quiet breakfast by the pool.
It has a central location – walkable to the Royal Palace, riverfront, Street 240, and many cafés and bars – and is only a short 15-20 minute drive from the airport.
The hotel also boasts a gym, on-site dining and a lovely swimming pool to cool you down from the severe humidity you’ll experience in Cambodia.
If you’re looking for somewhere that feels thoughtful, calming, and well‑located rather than purely functional, Plantation Urban Resort & Spa is an excellent choice.
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Day 1: Riverside Walks, Rooftops & Khmer Cuisine
Important tip: Be conscious of valuables while exploring, especially near busy areas and markets.
Start your Phnom Penh experience with a leisurely walk along Sisowath Quay, the city’s riverside promenade overlooking the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers.
Visit Wat Phnom, the city’s namesake temple, and stop by F3 Friends Future Factory (note: it closes at 5pm) to shop from a market of locally-made products.
This stretch is ideal for easing into the city.
Sunset Drinks: Rooftop Views by the River
As the heat eases, head up for sunset drinks.
Le Moon Rooftop is an excellent first stop, offering sweeping views over the Royal Palace and river, and one of the best sunset vantage points in Phnom Penh. Aim for around 6pm, when the light softens and the city starts to glow.
If you want to extend the rooftop crawl, nearby options include:
- Juniper Gin Bar – a rooftop cocktail bar along Sisowath Quay
- Akasa Sky Bar – close to the Palace with a relaxed, scenic vibe
Browse the night market area, open Friday–Sunday from around 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm. It’s located along Sisowath Quay by the river, and it really comes alive after sunset – food stalls, live music, and locals sitting on mats eating together. The sweet spot is 6:30–8:30 pm – early enough to browse comfortably, late enough for atmosphere.
Evening: Phnom Penh by Tuk Tuk
Before dinner, ask a tuk tuk driver to take you on a short evening city loop to see Phnom Penh’s landmarks illuminated at night. It’s easy to find vendors willing to take you, and I recommend using local providers to give back 100% to the economy. Around the Palace you’ll find many people selling tours which you do not need to book in advance. This is people’s livelihood and they know where to take you for the best experience.
Warning: Be careful with your phone in the streets and even within the Tuk Tuk. On the tour you may want to put your arm out to get the best snaps, but this is a common technique for phone snatching, and the tour guides will heavily warn you against it.
For an evening tour of Phnom Penh, you will likely take the following route, which will give you a well rounded view of the entire city in just one day:
Alongside the Independence Monument, Victory Gate and King Father statue, we passed Wat Phnom, Wat Ounalom, and the Royal Palace (viewed from outside), all beautifully lit in the evening. The route followed Sisowath Quay along the riverside before crossing to Diamond Island (Koh Pich), offering a contrast between historic Phnom Penh and the city’s newer developments.
Seeing these sites after dark gives the city a different energy – calmer, cooler, and more atmospheric.
Dinner: Malis Restaurant
Malis Restaurant is one of the best places in the city to experience refined, authentic Khmer cuisine. This is a perfect introduction to Cambodian food. It’s considered a more fine-dining option in Phnom Penh and reservations are generally required.
Late Evening: Bassac Lane
After, or instead of dinner, head to Bassac Lane, one of Phnom Penh’s coolest neighbourhoods for nightlife. You could grab a more relaxed bite here which will be cheaper and less formal, but the quality will still be great, and I would suggest this as a fantastic alternative to Malis.
This compact street is lined with classy bars, restaurants, and boutiques, making it ideal for bar‑hopping. Aura Bar is a great option here, but the beauty of Bassac Lane is wandering and seeing what draws you in.
You’ll find live music and a generally rustic atmosphere. This is the hidden gem of Phnom Penh and is not to be missed!
Day 2: History, Culture & a Sophisticated Night Out
Morning: Cambodia’s History & Reflection
Start early with a private driver who will take you to Cambodia’s most important historical sites: The Killing Fields and The Genocide Museum (S‑21).
You can arrange this with your hotel, or leveraging one of the tour guides outside the Palace, if you wish to give back directly to the local people rather than through a third party agency. This tour takes around 3.5 hours and is an essential, if sobering, part of understanding Cambodia’s recent harrowing past.
You can also ask your driver to stop at: Wat Preah Theat (Pink Temple), around 15 minutes from the Killing Fields.
This morning will be emotionally heavy but deeply important. You must visit to deeply understand the Cambodian way of life. But ensure you adequately prepare yourself for what you are about to endure, and plan something lighter afterwards.
Lunch: Eleven One Kitchen
For lunch, head to Eleven One Kitchen, known for its fresh, healthy dishes cooked without MSG. It’s a gentle reset after the morning’s intensity and a good place to recharge.
Afternoon: Royal Palace, Shopping & Cafés
If you didn’t visit on Day 1, spend time at the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. Allocate around one hour, keeping in mind it is open from 8 – 10.30am & 2-5pm. Also, modest dress is required.
From here, explore Street 240, one of Phnom Penh’s most walkable and charming streets. This leafy area is full of independent boutiques and cafes. Great stops along Street 240 include:
The Shop 240 – bakery, coffee & light bites
The Tamarind – rooftop wine bar with pita & hummus
Enso Café – healthy food and drinks
If you want to slow things down further, options include:
Bliss Spa for treatments
Nataraj Yoga
A stroll through Euro Park
Evening: Sunset Cocktails at SORA
For your final evening, dress up and head to SORA for sunset drinks around 6pm.
This high‑energy venue sits on a dramatic cantilevered terrace and offers stunning panoramic city views. Sitting on top of the Rosewood, the prices are a bit hefty for Cambodia, with cocktails from around $8 USD, but I feel the views and stylish, buzzy atmosphere makes it an essential stop when visiting this amazing city.
If the weather turns, have Mawsim Gin Bar as a backup – an award‑winning gin distillery just a 3‑minute walk away, but note that reservations are required.
Dinner: Cuisine Wat Damnak
For another fine dining option, consider booking dinner at Cuisine Wat Damnak, offering an 8‑course Khmer tasting menu for around £35 per person. The dishes are totally unique but flavourful.
If you’re looking for something less pristine, I’d say head back to Bassac Lane. Its charm is unmatched.
Final Thoughts: Is Phnom Penh Worth Two Days?
Absolutely. Phnom Penh isn’t glossy or polished in the way some Southeast Asian capitals are, but that’s exactly what makes it compelling. In two days, you experience Cambodia’s history and resilience, and riverside life and local culture.
This itinerary strikes a balance between reflection and enjoyment, giving Phnom Penh the time and respect it deserves.
